Congratulations
if you’ve made it past the title and are still reading. It reveals that you are
open-minded and into the #DrinkCurious philosophy. You see, there are whisky drinkers out
there who, when they see the word blended, immediately get all huffy and
believe what’s in the bottle must be substandard. They only drink single
malts. Or at least they do until someone opens their eyes and proves they’re cheating
themselves (this is one of the beautiful things about blind tastings).
Don’t
worry; the same folks who only drink single malts also poo-poo single-grain
whiskies and treat them like they’re the ugly, redheaded stepsister to single
malts.
You’ve
likely heard this from Walt
Whitman: There is no such thing as bad whisky.
Some whiskies just happen to be better than others. I’m here to tell you that
Walt is full of crap. There are some godawful whiskies out there that are unfit
for human consumption. I know because I’ve reviewed enough of them!
Blends
get a bad rap because there are enough Busts out there. Distillers try to save
mediocre barrels by blending them with better ones, hoping that the bad is
diluted enough by the good so no one notices. Truth be told, there are some equally
undrinkable single malts and single grains.
I
won’t suggest that producing a single malt or single grain Scotch is easy. I have
no formal training as a distiller. I understand the process just fine. But there’s
a difference between being book smart and street smart.
However,
I will tell you that producing a single malt or grain is more straightforward
than building a good blended whisky. The reason is that the Master Blender
(the equivalent of an American Master Distiller) has a result in mind.
The question for them is, How do I get there? There’s artistry involved.
There’s patience. There’s trial and error. But, a talented Master Blender can
do amazing things with components, stuff that will blow your mind.
There
are three types of “blends” concerning Scotch whisky. Blended Malt is a
blend of malted whiskies from more than one distillery. Blended Grain is
a blend of grain whiskies from more than one distillery. And a Blended
Scotch is a blend of malt and grain whiskies that can come from one or more
distilleries.
One
of the consistently better Scotch whisky blenders is Compass Box Scotch Whiskymaker. Founded in 2000 by John Glaser (an American living
in London), he aimed to bring the art of blending back into fashion. He started
Compass Box in his kitchen! John’s belief that a single distillery cannot create
what a blender can (hence, the artistry I previously mentioned) by
working with multiple distilleries allows him to explore and experiment until
he finds something he finds truly special.
Today
I’m sipping on Compass Box Glasgow
Blend, which used to be called Great King Street Glasgow Blend.
“In his 1930s book ‘Whisky,’ Aeneas MacDonald teaches us that Glaswegians historically preferred fuller bodied and more flavour-packed whiskies than people in other parts of the world. So what better name for a whisky such as this?
Glaswegians are also famed for their sense of humour, which is why the city’s Wellington statue – traditionally dressed down with a traffic cone – is featured on the front label.” – Compass Box
One
of the things I appreciate about Compass Box is its transparency. They’re not
perfect, but they go beyond what many others do. Rather than keep everything in
the blend a secret, you get most of the information. We quickly discover that this
Scotch is made of the following components:
- The Cameronbridge Distillery, first-fill Bourbon barrels, single grain whisky (35.2%)
- Undisclosed Distillery Near the Town of Aberlour, first-fill Oloroso Sherry butt, single malt whisky (29%)
- The Laphroaig Distillery, refill barrel, single malt whisky (18.2%)
- The Clynelish Distillery, first-fill Bourbon barrels, single malt whisky (9.9%)
- Undisclosed Distillery Near the Town of Aberlour, revatted Oloroso Sherry butt, single malt whisky (5.1%)
- Undisclosed Highland Malt Blend, heavily-toasted custom French oak cask, blended malt whisky (2.6%)
That concoction is then bottled at 43% ABV (86°), is non-chill filtered,
naturally colored, and a 750ml bottle runs in the neighborhood of $35.00. I
picked up a bottle at a favorite local liquor store. It carries no age
statement, but that’s not unusual for a blended Scotch.
Before
we get any further, you should be aware that I tried Great King Street Glasgow
Blend toward the beginning of my whisky journey, and I was not a fan. But I
also didn’t care for peated whiskies then. My palate has developed, as has my
love of peat. So, I’m coming to Glasgow Blend with an open mind and not knowing
what to expect.
Appearance: I
poured this blended Scotch into my Glencairn glass and drank it neat. Inside, the
liquid looked like brassy gold. A thicker rim unveiled watery tears, which left
behind sticky droplets.
Nose: Brine
and peat competed for my attention. Both obtained it. They attempted to conceal
smells of raisins, plums, roasted almonds, apples, and pears. Inhaling the vapor
through my mouth had vanilla roll across my tongue.
Palate: There
was a slight waxiness to the texture. It was full-bodied and offered flavors of
salted caramel, peat, and baked apples on the front of my palate. The middle
featured raisins, cherries, and honey, while the back tasted of clove, seaweed,
and French oak.
Finish: I found
the finish long and bold with peat, brine, and French oak. Those were offset by
baked apples, vanilla, and honey.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust:
Interestingly enough, the peat and seaweed from the Laphroaig content were easy
to pick out despite being only 18% of the blend, as was the Clynelish waxiness
of the mouthfeel, yet that was only 10%. I found it fascinating that Compass
Box could maintain these signature qualities with all the variants involved.
There’s also a lesson to be
learned: Never be afraid to return to something you initially disliked. Our palates
change with both age and experience. I’ve often been surprised that things I was
not too fond of years ago are now delightful. Such is the case with Glasgow
Blend. It earns every bit of my Bottle rating. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you to do so responsibly.
This replaced JW Black a while ago as my peated blend of choice. It makes a phenomenal highball with Diet Ginger Ale. Cheers Jeff!!
ReplyDeleteCheers!
DeleteCheers!!
DeleteCompass Box raised the bar for blended whisky! The Glasgow Blend is always on my whisky shelf. It's just a damn good dram. The blended grain whisky, Hedonism, is another great bottle from Compass Box, but it is more expensive than the Glasgow Blend. Still worth the price, though.
ReplyDeleteIt's a sign of the times, perhaps, that the local Australian retailer has recently discounted this by some 25%, which priced it slightly above old-established blends like Teacher's. Another retailer recently cleared stocks of Berry Bros & Rudd 'Classic Range' blends at half price, meaning that instead of costing 20% more than Talisker 10, you could buy them for 40% less, which to my mind was a fair price. I bought quite a lot of each for everyday drinking, when I would never have considered buying another bottle at the original prices. Sanity might possibly be returning to the whisky market.
ReplyDelete