Highland Park "The Light" 17 Year Single Malt Scotch Whisky Review & Tasting Notes

There are several storied, well-loved Scotch distilleries out there, and one of those is Highland Park, a distillery in Kirkwall, the largest town in Orkney. Orkney is off on its own, way up north, near the Arctic Circle, and consists of 70 islands, 20 of which are inhabited. The islands have been part of human history going back about 8500 years.

 

Highland Park suggests they are located outside Scotland’s five whiskey regions; however, legally, they are in the Highland region. There is a mystery behind the foundations of this distillery. Some claim it was founded in 1798 by Magnus Eunson, a priest who moonlighted as a whisky smuggler. Others claim it was a farmer named David Robertson during the same year. Regardless, Robertson’s name is on the records as being the founder.

 

The obfuscation continues with the distillery’s original name. Some have called it Kirkwall. Others refer to it as Rosebank. Still, others maintain it has always been Highland Park.

 

In 1816, an excise officer, John Robertson, took the distillery's helm. Ten years later, Robert Borwick obtained one of the first legal licenses to distill whisky, and with that, he took control. Then, in 1840, his son, George, was named the owner. He ran things until 1869, when his brother, James, took possession and promptly attempted to sell the distillery.  

 

That resulted in two experienced folks, William Stuart (owner of Miltonduff) and James Grant of The Glenlivet, being granted a license in 1870 and subsequently taking ownership of Highland Park. In 1895, Grant assumed complete control of the distillery. Then, in 1937, the distillery was sold to Highland Distillers. Finally, in 1999, The Edrington Group absorbed Highland Distillers and remains the distillery’s owners today.

 

Fun Fact: The average temperature in Orkney is about 46°F, with an average summer temperature of only 54°F, meaning there isn't much opportunity for the whisky to pull flavors from a barrel.

 

Today I’m sipping Highland Park “The Light” 17, a single malt Scotch distilled in January 2005 of 100% malted barley. There is also an expression called “The Dark.” The difference between the two is The Light is aged 17 years in refill Bourbon barrels and The Dark in former Sherry casks. It weighs in at 52.9% ABV (105.8°), and per wine-searcher.com, it averages about $316.00 (but can be found for less).

 

A friend gave me this sample to try and share my thoughts.

 

Appearance: I chose to sip this neat. The liquid in my Glencairn glass was brilliant gold. A thin rim yielded long, slow legs.

 

Nose: I could smell the smoky peat as I allowed the whisky to rest in my glass. It filled the air. When I brought it close to my nose to begin sniffing, the aroma included peaches, citrus, honeysuckle, and vanilla. Peaches and vanilla rolled across my tongue as I inhaled through my lips.

 

Palate: This was a potent pour, and the proof became apparent. Once I got past the palate shock, flavors were surprisingly easy to pick out. The front offered smoke, coffee, and cocoa powder. Midway through, I tasted peaches, apples, and vanilla, while the back had clove, dry oak, and caramel.

 

Finish: The finish was big and bold, consisting of clove, oak, smoky peat, and mocha. That mocha became rich while the clove kept my palate tingling.

 

Bottle, Bar, or Bust: I went into this review expecting to be unimpressed. I hate to admit it, but I’d always found Highland Park dull. This is why you #DrinkCurious and leave your biases at the door. Highland Park The Light 17 is stunning. It was a smoke bomb, and I couldn’t stop sipping it. I’ve seen this as low as $275.00, and I’d pay that all day long for a Bottle. Cheers!

 

My Simple, Easy-to-Understand Rating System

• Bottle = Buy It
• Bar = Try It
• Bust = Leave It

 

Whiskeyfellow encourages you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you do so responsibly.