One
month each year, the folks at BenRiach
Distillery spread barley on its malting floor, observe
it while turning it by hand, and pick the “perfect” time to move it to the kiln
to dry and stop the germination process.
I’ve
reviewed each annual Malting Season release from the storied BenRiach
Distillery. Led by Dr.
Rachel Barrie, BenRiach is a Speyside distillery
known for doing things in its own way. Here we are again, and it is time to
explore Malting Season Third
Edition.
This
single malt scotch whisky pays homage to a time when BenRiach was mothballed.
While no distillation occurred, its malting floor remained active, providing
peated malt to other distilleries. Today, only eight floor-malting distilleries
are left in Scotland; one of those few is still BenRiach.
“Every year during ‘Maltings Season’ our team hand malt select barley onsite. This historic process pays tribute to our founder, John Duff, and the slow craft of his historic maltings which we continue to this day in the pursuit of exceptional flavor. Malting Season Third Edition has malt sweetness on the nose with wild bergamot, pear and meadowsweet honey. The palate leads to a burst of clementine, floral honey and gentle barley spice, followed by flavors of apricot, malted almond and traces of wild cherry.” – Stewart Buchannan, Benriach’s Global Brand Ambassador
Malting
Season Third Edition carries no age statement; however, it was aged in virgin
oak and former Bourbon barrels from 100% malted concerto barley distillate that
came off the still on November 2, 2012. Malting Season is naturally colored. It
is packaged in a 750ml bottle at 48.3% ABV (96.6°) with a suggested price of $159.99.
Will
the Third Edition hold up to the previous two? We’ll #DrinkCurious to answer
that, but first, I must thank BenRiach for providing me with a sample in
exchange for my no-strings-attached, honest review.
Appearance: I
poured this Scotch into my Glencairn glass to sip neat. Inside, the brilliant
gold liquid formed a medium-thin rim and a curtain of tears.
Nose: When I
brought the glass under my nostrils and inhaled, I encountered thick butterscotch
with apples, pears, and malt. Drawing the air into my mouth exposed pears.
Palate: Malting
Season’s texture was thin and oily, and the palate exploded with flavors. The
front consisted of tangerines, dried apricots, and plums. The middle tasted of vanilla,
honey, and raw almonds. The back featured fresh-cracked black pepper, peaches,
and oak.
Finish: The long-lasting
finish lasted several minutes with peaches, oak tannins, black pepper, clove, and
a soft whisper of smoke.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: One of
the things Dr. Barrie does extraordinarily well is blending barrels of whiskey.
You’d expect that from a master blender, but she’s consistently talented. Malting
Season Third Edition doesn’t disappoint. For fun, I paired it against the
Second Edition, of which I had a small amount remaining.
The two had some
similarities regarding notes of peaches, apricots, apples, and honey. But Third
Edition’s addition of tangerines boosted this whisky over its predecessor. Third
Edition is delicious, properly proofed, and worth the investment, and it earns
my Bottle rating. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you to do so responsibly.
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