Ardbeg Anthology: The Unicorn's Tale Single Malt Scotch Whisky Review

 

The tiny Scottish island of Islay is home to about 3000 people, yet is home to ten working distilleries making some of the peatiest whiskies in the world. They are Ardnahoe, Bowmore, Bruichladdich, Bunnahabhain, Caol Ila, Kilchoman, Lagavulin, Laphroaig, and Port Ellen, which only reopened this past March after 41 years.  

 

The tenth is Ardbeg, situated on Islay’s southern coast and founded in 1815 by John Macdougal. In 1838, he sold it to Thomas Buchanan; however, John’s son, Alexander, continued to run operations. Alexander died in 1853, and his sisters, Margaret and Flora, assumed control, along with Colin Hay.  

 

Margaret’s and Flora’s involvement was monumental, as very few women were distilling in Scotland. The earliest recorded female Scotch distiller was Helen Cumming, who founded Cardhu in 1824. 

 

Ownership returned to the Macdougals when, in 1922, Alexander Macdougal & Co. purchased Ardbeg in its entirety. Then, in 1977, Hiram Walker acquired it only to shutter the distillery in 1981 due to minuscule demand. Its closure severely impacted the local economy, as while it only employed 18 people, the town relied heavily on the distillery.  

 

Thankfully, in 1987, Hiram Walker was sold to Allied Lyons, and in 1989, the distillery rumbled back to life – for two years. It was then mothballed again. In 1997, The Glenmorangie Company purchased Ardbeg, its current owner. Finally, in 2021, Ardbeg doubled its distilling capacity by adding two stills.

 

Like most of the other Islay distilleries, Ardbeg produces peated whiskies. It should be noted that a whisky’s peatiness, measured in phenols per million, is due to what happens before distillation. It is never added post-distillation. Ardbeg’s whiskies are typically 50-60ppm, making it one of the most robust Islay offers.

 

Ardbeg recently released its second entry in the Anthology series. They named it The Unicorn’s Tale.

 

“One dark night after a fête at the Distillery, the clip-clop of hooves was heard echoing around the yard. Those less swayed by mythical tales will tell you it was Rory, the Distillery’s greedy Shetland Pony – known for his ill-temper and devilishly sweet tooth. Others believe something else was afoot.

 

Distillery workers ventured outside to investigate. Rounding the corner, they witnessed a horse-like creature rearing up against a full moon. A ‘horn’ protruding from its head, it cut a chilling silhouette. The next day, rumours swirled about a sighting of Scotland’s national animal… a Unicorn.” - Ardbeg

 

The Unicorn’s Tale is a single malt Scotch distilled from 100% malted barley and aged 14 years in former Bourbon and Madiera wine casks. It is non-chill filtered and packaged at 46% ABV (92°), and you can expect to spend around $159.99 for a 700ml.  

 

How’s The Unicorn’s Tale taste? To find out, we have to #DrinkCurious. First, I must thank Ardbeg for providing me with a sample in exchange for my no-strings-attached, honest review.

 

Appearance: I sampled this whisky neat from my Glencairn glass. The liquid inside was a bright gold; it formed a thinner rim and a curtain of thick tears.

 

Nose: Almost immediately after pouring The Unicorn’s Tale, the air around me was filled with smoky peat. Yet, when I brought the glass just under my nostrils, it was softer than I had expected. I smelled grilled pineapples, bananas, pears, vanilla, and barbequed meats. Next, I drew the aroma into my mouth and found more grilled pineapples and muted oak.  

 

Palate: The Unicorn’s Tale had a thick, rich, creamy texture that slowly rolled across my tongue and down my throat. No effort was needed to discern the note that hit my palate's front, middle, and back. The first flavors included crème brulee with lime zest and cooked peaches. Next, I tasted dried apricots, nutmeg, and fennel. Clove, smoky peat, and mint rounded out the back.  

 

Finish: Most of the finish resided on the tip of my tongue and the back of my throat, with the most extended component being burnt ends. It also featured fennel, nutmeg, clove, and freshly-torched crème brulee. The finish started soft and slow. After nearly 90 seconds, it finally built enough strength to remind me this is from Ardbeg. The overall experience ran 2:08, ranking it as a longer duration.

 

Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Ardbeg does one thing consistently: it puts out seriously peaty whiskies that never taste medicinal. Perhaps the most unusual aspect of The Unicorn’s Tale is the finish. It fooled me: initially, I was convinced it was elusive and underperformed. Patience revealed the truth. The nose and palate were mesmerizing, much like the mythical creature the whisky was named for. My only complaint was that my sample was good for a single pour; I’ll likely go out and buy a Bottle myself. Cheers!

 

My Simple, Easy-to-Understand Rating System

• Bottle = Buy It
• Bar = Try It
• Bust = Leave It

 

Whiskeyfellow encourages you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you to do so responsibly.