I
have a friend named Sean
Wipfli, the barrel-picking specialist at Niemuth’s Southside Market located at 2121 S. Onieda St in Appleton, Wisconsin.
Every so often, Sean sends me samples of his whiskeys and asks me to review
them. He does a ton of picks.
You
would be mistaken if you think I give Sean a free pass because he's a friend. While
several earn Bottle ratings, he’s been hit with his fair share of Bar ratings,
although I admit he’s never acquired a Bust. I believe that’s one reason he keeps
sending them over – he wants to know my honest opinions.
Sean
enjoys tinkering and will experiment with barrel-finishing a new whiskey in a
barrel that held a former pick and blending. He takes the #DrinkCurious
lifestyle to heart, and whenever he sends me stuff, I never quite know what I’m
getting into. He’s smart, and he has a good palate. We’ve also done picks
together.
Today’s
review is of four of Sean’s selections. Two are the same Bourbon at different
proofs; the others are lone single barrels.
Jeffrey John McCarthy Reserve & Stricker Family Antique
Distillery: Rush
Creek Distilling
Mashbill: 65% corn, 25% wheat, 10% malted barley
Age: 6 years in new, charred oak
Proof: SFA - 53.5% ABV (107°) & JJMR - 67.5% ABV
(135°)
Price: SFA - $54.99 & JJMR - $69.99
This
will be an unusual head-to-head review, as they’re the same Bourbon. The only
difference is that Jeffrey John McCarthy Reserve (JJMR) is at full barrel
proof, while Stricker Family Antique (SFA) weighs in at 107°. The latter was
proofed down in the barrel.
The
first notes will be SFA and the second JJMR (because when dealing with more
than one whiskey, I almost always sip them low-to-high proof).
Appearance: I
poured both of these neat in fresh Glencairn glasses.
SFA presented as a golden
amber. It formed a thick rim and slow, pencil-thin legs.
JJMR had an orange-amber
appearance, creating a thin rim that jettisoned a fast curtain of tears.
Nose: SFA’s
aroma consisted of heavy corn, nutmeg, charred oak, and baked apples. When I
brought the vapor into my mouth, there was butterscotch.
JJMR’s bouquet included
thick caramel and vanilla, corn, and chocolate. Drawing the air through my lips
offered a blast of caramel.
Palate: SFA
produced a thick and oily mouthfeel. It warmed my tongue as corn, caramel, and
leather notes were on the front. The middle comprised tobacco and cocoa, while
the back had cinnamon, white pepper, and charred oak.
JJMR’s texture was like
drinking cream. The front of my palate was almond nougat, caramel, and milk
chocolate, almost like a Milky Way candy bar. The middle tasted of leather,
tobacco, and maple. On the back, I tasted cinnamon spice, toffee, and clove.
Finish: SFA had
a medium-long finish, clocking in at 1:29. There was plenty of caramel, along
with leather, cocoa, cinnamon, and oak.
JJMR’s finish was almost
twice as long at 2:54. It kept my throat awake and left toffee, nougat,
caramel, leather, and clove behind.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: The
kicker here was that SFA drank far warmer than JJMR! If you told me SFA was
134° and JJMR was only 107°, I might be fooled if it were not how much longer JJMR
stuck around in my mouth and throat. At that point, they switched places again.
Between the two, JJMR is
superior. I loved the mouthfeel and especially the finish. JJMR takes a Bottle
rating, whereas SFA takes a Bar.
◊◊◊◊◊
“Double
Eagle” Barker’s Mill Bottled-in-Bond
Distillery: MB Roland
Distillery
Mashbill: Undisclosed wheated mashbill
Age: 6.5 years in new, charred oak
Proof: 50% ABV (100°)
Price: $54.99 for 750ml
MB
Roland is a fabulous little craft distillery in Pembroke, Kentucky. I visited
it last year and fell in love with a few of its whiskeys and flavored
moonshines. You can read more about this distillery from my review of its Straight Malt Whiskey.
Appearance: I
sipped this Bourbon neat from my Glencairn glass. The darker-amber-colored whiskey
produced a medium-thin rim and sticky droplets.
Nose: As I
brought my glass to my nostrils, I smelled a healthy dose of malt and corn. Next
came a creamy vanilla, which eventually overwhelmed the corn and malt. I
allowed the vapor to go into my mouth, which reminded me of Honey Nut
Cheerios.
Palate: Double
Eagle had an oily mouthfeel. I tasted coffee, chocolate, and hazelnuts on the
front. The middle was all Honey Nut Cheerios, and the back featured orange
zest, brown sugar, and toasted oak.
Finish: The
finish continued the journey of creamy, sweet flavors. It was brief at 0:53,
providing brown sugar, vanilla, toasted oak, and milk chocolate notes.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Double
Eagle has one fault: I wish the finish lasted longer. It was way too short.
Yet, this was a completely enjoyable Bourbon from the nose to the finish. It
has been a while since I’ve engaged with such a sweet Bourbon, and it lacked
spice. MB Roland did a great job, as did Sean. Hence, it deserves my Bottle
rating.
◊◊◊◊◊
Old
Unicorn Bones
Distillery: Backbone
Bourbon
Mashbill: 75% corn, 21% rye, 4% malted barley
Age: 111 months and 11 days in new, charred oak
Proof: 59.9% ABV (119.8°)
Price: $84.99 for 750ml
I
know the idea behind this name because Sean and I picked Unicorn Slayer back in 2019, and he followed that up
with Unicorn Hunter, which I was not involved with, the following
year. They both came from Backbone Bourbon, which is sourced from MGP.
Appearance: Old
Unicorn Bones possessed a deep, orange hue. A fragile rim shed slow, thick
tears.
Nose: The
bouquet started floral; as I continued, it became fruity with dark cherries and
golden raisins, then transformed to vanilla and caramel. When I pulled the air
through my lips, a wave of thick vanilla rolled across my tongue and down my
throat.
Palate: The
texture was velvety. Flavors of maple syrup, toffee, and chocolate were on the
front of my palate. Midway through, I tasted cherries, tobacco leaf, and rye
spice. The back included oak, black pepper, and caramel.
Finish: Maple
syrup, caramel, cherries, milk chocolate, and rye spice remained for a
medium-long finish. Its duration was 1:31, hitting the medium-long category.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Old
Unicorn Bones is one of those unusual whiskeys with flavors across all spectrum
aspects and then some. I get why Sean included it in the Unicorn series.
There’s magic here. It is one of those Bourbons where you really don’t care
what it costs; you just want it. Obviously, it takes my Bottle rating.
Final Thoughts: When I
was three-quarters through these Bourbons, I thought for sure that Double Eagle
would be the winner – it was that good. Then Old Unicorn Bones left Double Eagle
in its dust. Between Jeffrey John McCarthy Reserve and Stricker Family Antique,
JJMR was the clear winner. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you to do so responsibly.
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