An
American blender that has earned my respect is Barrell Craft Spirits.
Based in Louisville, Barrell has been at it for over a decade and has won its
fair share of awards (including some from me). Almost every release is at cask
strength (two years ago, it released Foundation, which was not);
Barrell wants to leave the proofing adventure to each individual’s preference.
That doesn't translate to my belief that everything Barrell has done has been perfect. There
has been the occasional dud, but they’re few and far between.
Sherry is a fortified wine from white grapes grown in
Andalusia, Spain. It is a protected designation, much like how Cognac must come
from the Cognac region of France or how Bourbon must be a product of the United
States. To be considered Sherry, the fortified wine must come from Spain’s
Sherry Triangle in Cádiz.
Sherry
can be all over the spectrum regarding color, dryness, and taste. Fino is the
most pale and dry. Pedro
Ximénez (or PX) is the darkest and sweetest and
is considered a dessert wine. I’ve had many whiskeys aged or finished in
various Sherry casks, and my favorite is PX. Something magical happens when PX
Sherry influences whiskey.
Today’s
review is Barrell’s Cask
Finish Series: PX Sherry Bourbon. Barrell
blended Bourbons from Indiana, Kentucky, and Tennessee to create it. Barrell’s
sources are undisclosed, but over the years, I’ve been able to whittle them
down to what I suspect are MGP (Indiana), Jim Beam (Kentucky), and George Dickel
(Tennessee). In the years that I’ve been reviewing what it produces, they’ve
never said, “You’re wrong, stop publishing that.”
Each
of those Bourbons aged between 6 and 15 years old. The Indiana components were
6-, 7-, 8-, and 12 years old; the Kentucky components were 9- and 10 years old;
and the Tennessee components were 7- and 15-years old. As you can surmise from
the name, the blend was then transferred to PX Sherry casks for a finishing
cycle for an undisclosed duration.
The
mashbill was 80% corn, 16% rye, and 4% malted barley. It is packaged at 57.76%
ABV (115.52°), and approximately 9000 – 750mL bottles are available with a
suggested price of $84.99.
Is
this Bourbon another winner, or should it fall by the wayside? The best way to
answer that question is to #DrinkCurious, and I must thank Barrell for
providing me with this opportunity in exchange for my no-strings-attached,
honest review.
Appearance: I used
a Glencairn glass to sip this Bourbon neat. The liquid was the color of chestnuts;
it formed a thinner rim and crowded, pencil-thin, fast tears.
Nose: As I
brought the glass beneath my nose and inhaled, I encountered leather, dark chocolate,
raisins, and plums. As I continued to explore, I found oak and vanilla. Drawing
the air through my lips brought dried cherries and figs.
Palate: The Bourbon’s
mouthfeel was silky and carried a decent weight. The more times I returned to
the glass, the thicker it became. The PX influence was heavy; I tasted thick
honey, figs, and golden raisins on the front of my palate—the middle featured dark
chocolate, toffee, and almonds.
Finish: Honey,
figs, cherry pie filling, cocoa, oak, and dry leather stuck in my mouth and
throat for what seemed to be an eternity. I pulled out my stopwatch, and the duration
ran a whopping 3:57!
With Water: Just
for kicks, and while it certainly didn’t need it, I added two drops of
distilled water. That turned the fruity notes intense and slightly diminished
the others. The texture became creamy, and the fruity notes exploded in my
mouth again. It also highlighted the oak and introduced clove and vanilla bean.
The finish was insignificantly shorter, and cigar notes were added.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Cask
Finish Series: PX Sherry warmed my mouth and drank at its stated proof; it left
the roof of my mouth with a slight buzzing sensation. Its sweetness was welcoming
and provided an enchanting experience. I could easily imagine someone in my
whiskey library with me and ignoring them – not to be rude, but because they
weren’t as interesting as what was in my glass.
Barrell’s PX Sherry is a
tremendous Bourbon worth exploring whether you pour this neat or add a few
drops of water.
Barrell seems to be
lowering the price of their Bourbons. Granted, it is only $5.00, but that’s a
welcomed change in today's economy.
I have been impressed with
the Cask Finish Series; each release seems to eclipse the last. I’m mindlessly smiling
as I’m typing this – that means this one is an easy Bottle rating.
Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit
but begs you to do so responsibly.
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