Review of Whisky Selections from The ImpEx Collection, Edition Five

 

Today I’m embarking on a journey I’ve not attempted before. I will report on seven whiskies and two rums in a single review. I plan to break this up into “shifts,” so I don’t overstimulate (or deaden) my palate.

 

I’m also approaching this experiment like I’d handle a whiskey tasting with multiple pours: I start at the lowest proof and work my way to the highest. I’ll also save the rums for last, as they’ll have (or should have) a different profile than the whiskies. I’ll also cleanse my palate between each.

 

ImpEx Beverages, Inc. was founded in 2008 by Sam Filmus. He wanted to curate rare and premium spirits from around the world, with a focus on Scotch. A decade later, he was joined by Chris Uhde, and together they import Whisky, Gin, Rum, and Mezcal from Scotland, Wales, Japan, Israel, Mexico, England, the Caribbean, India, and New Zealand. Sam and Chris are open-minded and interested in the unusual spirits other countries offer.

 

ImPex began an independent bottling line called The ImpEx Collection. There have been four previous editions of the ImpEx Collection. Today, I’ll explore Edition Five.

 

“We approach our cask selection very carefully, only choosing those we consider to be of the highest caliber, and only when the entire tasting panel is in agreement. Our team blind-tastes samples and gives their opinions without knowing the spirit’s age or cost, focusing only on its flavor, quality, and unique characteristics. Out of ten samples, we may select two casks, five casks, or none at all.

The journey is fun, but we never lose sight of what matters: pleasing our consumers. We want the ImpEx Collection to represent the highest benchmark in spirits, so that every time someone picks up a bottle, they know that an unforgettable experience awaits.” – ImpEx Beverages, Inc.

 

I have been generously provided with four Scotches and an English whisky to #DrinkCurious and render my no-strings-attached honest review. To avoid repetition in the descriptions, I’m using Glencairn glasses and drinking them neat. I also allowed about 15 minutes for each whisky to breathe before approaching it.

 

Oh, one more thing: I give a little recap of each of these distilleries. Most come straight from previous reviews, and a handful I’ve had to put together new ones for today’s review.

 

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The ImpEx Collection 2018 6-yo Spirit of Yorkshire ex-Madiera Single Cask #3152

 

 

• Whiskey Type: English Single Malt
• Distiller: Spirit of Yorkshire
• Age: 6 years
• Mashbill: 100% malted barley
• Cooperage: ex-Madiera cask
• Alcohol Content: 52.7% ABV (105.4°)
• Price per 700mL: $110.00
• 274 bottles available

 

About Spirit of Yorkshire: This English distillery began making whisky in 2016, with the idea that tradition is important and must be respected, while avoiding copying Scotch whisky production. Its founder, Tom Mellor, and the team worked under the guidance of Dr. Jim Swan, resulting in a proper grain-to-glass operation. It is also the first working distillery in all of Yorkshire.

 

Appearance: The crisp, clear honey appearance seemed inviting. The liquid produced a thick rim with widely spaced, fast, crazed tears.

 

Nose: Notes of butterscotch, grass, lime zest, and apples wear easily identifiable. The air in my mouth tasted of lemon peel.

 

Palate: The whisky had a soft, creamy texture, giving me a mouthful of butterscotch. With the second sip, I found more butterscotch, along with fresh biscuits and orange zest on the front. My mid-palate was malty with flavors of milk chocolate and honey. The back featured hazelnuts, dried apricots, and Bartlett pears.

 

Finish: Creamy caramel, hazelnuts, milk chocolate, orange zest, and apricots rounded things out. Just as those faded, oak and clove took the stage, erasing the sweeter notes. It started mild and had a very slight ramp of intensity. The overall duration ran 1:27, making for a medium-long experience.  

 

Bottle, Bar, or Bust: I’ve had whiskies from Spirit of Yorkshire under its Filey Bay label, and this one reminded me of the Flagship offering with more panache. Single Cask #3152 was loud, proud, well-balanced, and delicious. It certainly deserves my Bottle rating, and it would be a shame to pass this one up.

 

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The ImpEx Collection 2011 14-yo Dailuaine Quarter Cask #313842

 

• Whiskey Type: Single Malt Scotch
• Distiller: Dailuaine
• Region: Speyside
• Age: 14 years
• Mashbill: 100% malted barley
• Cooperage: former KOVAL Bourbon quarter cask
• Alcohol Content: 54% ABV (108°)
• Price per 700mL: $140.00
• 161 bottles available

 

About Dailuaine: Founded in 1854 by William Mackenzie in Charleston-of-Aberlour, he passed the distillery to his wife, who leased it to James Fleming. He, along with William’s son, created Mackenzie & Company, and in 1884, the distillery was revamped. It reopened as Dailuaine-Glenlivet Distillery Ltd. in 1891, and, in 1898, it merged with Talisker to form Dailuaine-Talisker Distilleries Ltd. It was sold in 1916 to John Dewer & Sons, John Walker & Sons, and James Buchanan & Co., and in 1987 it was purchased by United Distillers, which later became Diageo.  

 

Appearance: The whisky’s citrine hue was like looking through colored glass. A thin, fragile rim discharged compacted, medium-width, slow tears.

 

Nose: Lemon oil was the first thing I smelled, and it took some effort to overcome it. What I found beneath included oak, potpourri, pastries, and a hint of vanilla. Drawing the air into my mouth brought a sensation of English toffee.  

 

Palate: Dailuaine’s texture was thin and oily, and what followed was a palate shock of tea. Another sip unveiled flavors of lemon curd, vanilla cake, and toffee on the front, with tea, baked apples, and a dash of cinnamon powder in the mid-palate. The back made things spicy with candied ginger, oak, and white pepper.

 

Finish: White pepper, candied ginger, tea, toffee, and lemon curd remained and, for whatever reason, seemed harmonious. It had a mild intensity and was level from beginning to end. It seemed incredibly oily, too. The 0:57 duration seemed to pass more quickly than that.

 

Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Dailuaine Quarter Cask #313842 seemed to check out the entire spectrum, from tart lemon curd to spicy white pepper to sweet baked apples to the peculiarity of tea. My biggest concern is my lack of fondness for tea, which played a significant role in this experience. If that’s your jam, I’m sure you’ll find it quite appealing. For me, it was too much, and my Bar rating is due.  

 

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The ImpEx Collection 2011 13-yo Blair Athol 1^st Fill Hogshead #30472

 

• Whiskey Type: Single Malt Scotch
• Distiller: Blair Athol  
• Region: Highland
• Age: 13 years
• Mashbill: 100% malted barley
• Cooperage: 1^st fill hogshead
• Alcohol Content: 56.3% ABV (112.6°)
• Price per 700mL: $140.00
• 233 bottles available

About Blair Athol: Founded in 1798 by John Steward and Robert Robertson, the distillery shuttered only a few years later. It was resurrected in 1825 when John Robertson acquired it. Between then and 1882, it had been sold six times, finally being mothballed in 1932 (thanks mostly to Prohibition). It took 17 years for Blair Athol to once again resume production, this time under Arthur Bell and Sons. In 1987, Guinness merged with Arthur Bell and Sons to form the Distillers Company, which eventually became Diageo.

 

Appearance: The hazy, bronze color was mesmerizing, causing me to gaze deeply into the whisky. The thin rim jettisoned massive, crazed tears that found their way back to the pool.

 

Nose: The aroma of cherry vanilla ice cream exploded from my glass. I was tempted to leave it at that, but I needed to learn if there was more (and there was). There was rich caramel, plums, and honeysuckle. Pulling the vapor through my lips brought a taste of dark chocolate.

 

Palate: The gentle mouthfeel offered up golden raisins, ripe plums, and figs on the front. Next came spiced nuts, a kiss of caramel, and fresh leather. I encountered charred oak, Bing cherries, and dark chocolate on the back of my palate.

 

Finish: Dark chocolate, figs, plums, Bing cherries, and oak rolled around in my mouth and down my throat. The finish was warming as it lingered for 1:38, making it on the long side.

 

Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Back when I was the Whiskey Consultant for Vom Fass, Blair Athol was a favorite of mine to pour for patrons. It had plenty of character, yet didn’t possess many of the off-putting notes that made Scotch newbies shy away.

 

As far as The ImpEx Collection’s expression, I could have ended this at the nosing and been perfectly happy. That would have been a mistake, because the palate and finish were, simply put, decadent. It is one of those whiskies I don’t care what it costs; I just want it. It should be obvious that my Bottle rating is well-deserved.

 

 

 

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The ImpEx Collection 2013 11-yo Teaninich ex-Bourbon Barrel #707207

 

• Whiskey Type: Single Malt Scotch
• Distiller: Teaninich
• Region: Highland
• Age: 11 years
• Mashbill: 100% malted barley
• Cooperage: ex-Bourbon barrel
• Alcohol Content: 56.8% ABV (113.6°)
• Price per 700mL: $125.00
• 243 bottles available

 

About Teaninich: Founded in 1817 by Hugh Monroe on the grounds of Teaninich Castle, by 1930, it had increased production 30 times over! He sold it to his brother, Lieutenant-General John Munro; however, he was stationed in India. The younger Munro leased out the distillery for another 45 years. In 1898, Robert Innes Cameron partnered with Munro, eventually buying him out completely in 1904. It was sold in 1933 to the Distillers Company, then curtailed operations in 1939 due to a barley shortage, and reopened in 1946. Distillers Company has since become Diageo.

 

Appearance: Teaninich’s color was like straw. The whisky created a thin rim with tightly-packed, thicker, syrupy tears.

 

Nose: When I brought the glass beneath my nose and inhaled, I discovered floral notes, along with apples, pears, browned butter, malt, and orange peel. Honeysuckle made itself apparent as I pulled the air through my lips.   

 

Palate: The silky texture offered no palate shock. I found buttered pecans and vanilla on the front, with honey, cinnamon, and apples in the mid-palate. The back featured orange peel, malt, and fresh leather.

 

Finish: Honey, cinnamon, apples, pecans, and fresh leather were joined by pink peppercorn and sweet oak. At 0:40, it was a short, soft finish.

 

Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Teaninich drank nowhere near its stated proof. If I didn’t know better, I’d have guessed about 90° or so. I appreciated what this single malt whisky was such an easy sipper. I wish the finish had been longer so I could have mulled over what was in my glass; I felt rushed to keep the momentum going. I’m stuck somewhere between a Bottle and Bar, and whenever that happens, the lower rating wins out, so Bar it is.     

 

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The ImpEx Collection 2008 17-yo Linkwood Chateau Margaux Red Wine Barrique #14547

 

• Whiskey Type: Single Malt Scotch
• Distiller: Linkwood
• Region: Speyside
• Age: 17 years
• Mashbill: 100% malted barley
• Cooperage: ex-Chateau Margaux Red Wine Barrique
• Alcohol Content: 58% ABV (116°)
• Price per 700mL: $225.00
• 252 bottles available

 

About Linkwood: Peter Brown built the distillery in 1821, and James Walker ran it until Brown’s passing in 1868. In 1872, Brown’s son, William, built a new distillery on the same grounds. Upon his death in 1898, the Brown family created Linkwood-Glenlivet and took the company public. From 1902 to 1932, Innes Cameron became the major stockholder and distillery manager. When he passed, it was taken over by Scotch Malt Distillers, which was purchased by Distillers Company, which eventually became Diageo.

 

Appearance: The golden-amber liquid left a husky rim and a curtain of wavy tears.  

 

Nose: Smells of strawberries and cream leaped from my glass and filled the air of my whiskey library. When I brought the glass to my nose and inhaled, I found stewed apples and peaches, along with floral notes and muted oak. I pulled the vapor through my lips and tasted brown sugar.

 

Palate: Linkwood’s mouthfeel was velvety with a medium weight. On the front of my palate were flavors of strawberries, ripe plums, and raspberries. The middle featured molasses, baked apples, and a floral quality. The back tasted of sweet oak, dark chocolate, and a mild minerality.  

 

Finish: At 1:07, it wasn’t the longest finish, but it sure took me on a wild ride with raspberries, baked apples, molasses, cocoa, sweet oak, and white pepper. It was even-keeled until the very end when the pepper appeared from nowhere.

 

Bottle, Bar, or Bust: I found Linkwood #14547 to be an incredibly complex Scotch whisky, combining bright fruits with savory, spicy, and mineral notes. At 17 years, it had enough time to really interact with the former wine casks. I’m not quite sure where the limestoniness originated; however, it melded well with the other flavors. This one is an investment, but I believe it is worthwhile, which is why I gave it a Bottle rating.    

 

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Final Thoughts: This sipping experience was fun and so varied. There was a clear winner here, and that’s the one from Blair Athol. In second place was Linkwood, third was Spirit of Yorkshire, followed by  Teaninich and Dailuaine. Cheers!

 

My Simple, Easy-to-Understand Rating System

• Bottle = Buy It
• Bar = Try It
• Bust = Leave It

 

Whiskeyfellow encourages you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit, but begs you to do so responsibly.