It
has been almost three years since the blenders at Barrell Craft Spirits
released a Rye. The last was in October 2020; Batch
003 was more of a world whiskey, with
distillates from Indiana, Tennessee, Canada, and Poland. Just when you thought
they gave up on Rye whiskey, here comes Batch 004.
“This rye blend highlights rye’s earthier side, featuring notes of tobacco, leather, and molé poblano. Its stewed fruit and wilder savory character recall the syrahs of France’s Rhône valley: blackberry and tapenade on the nose followed by a sweet meaty finish with a hint of black pepper.” – Barrell Craft Spirits
Similar
components brought Batch 004 to life. It started with Indiana Ryes (MGP/Ross & Squibb), that were 5-, 6-, and 10 years old. Next were 5-year
Tennessee (Dickel) and 6-year Kentucky (Beam) distillates, followed by a 14-year
Canadian. I’ve yet to nail down who the Canadian distilling partner is.
Once
blended in Louisville, Kentucky, its derived mashbill is 89% rye, 7% corn, and
4% malted barley. Everything aged in American white oak barrels. Anything Barrell
releases is non-chill filtered and packaged at cask strength: Batch 004 comes
to us at 57.85% (115.7°). It has a suggested price at retail of $89.99, which
is standard for Barrell’s flagship whiskeys.
Let’s
get some disclosure out of the way. I’ve had many opportunities to review what
Barrell puts out for several years. Its Bottle-Bar-Bust ratio runs heavy on the
Bottle side (I reviewed Batch 035 Bourbon last week). At the same time, I expect
a lot from Barrell before I open the box to see what’s inside. Also, Barrell
provided me a sample of Batch 004 in exchange for my no-strings-attached, honest
review.
Now
that we got the background out of the way let’s #DrinkCurious, shall we?
Appearance: I
sipped this whiskey neat from my Glencairn glass. It appeared the color of a
slightly tarnished copper. A thread-like rim formed, leaving behind thick,
straight tears that fell back into the pool.
Nose: Dill
and peppermint formed the aroma’s base, while smells of apples, apricots,
raisins, tobacco leaf, and toasted oak struggled to unbury themselves. When I
drew the air into my mouth, caramel and cinnamon tangoed across my tongue.
Palate: The
texture was thick and heavy, and the liquid coated every crevice in my mouth. Initially,
I tasted raisins, floral rye, and dried apricot. Dark-roast coffee, poblano peppers,
and dark chocolate flavors hit the middle of my palate. The back consisted of leather,
oak, and black pepper.
Finish: The
finish was long, spicy, and even felt leathery. The longer I waited, the more it
continued to build. Dark chocolate, poblano peppers, toasted oak, leather, and clove
were easily identified. Then, freshly-cracked black pepper dominated, yet as it
crescendoed, it fell off and vanished.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: What’s my
verdict on Batch 004? My initial reaction was almost confusion. I loved the molé
aspect (that’s a favorite when I’m eating Mexican food). The raisins and dried apricots
seemed strangely out of place. The floral spiciness reminded me of a younger Rye.
It floated across various spectrums. I see Batch 004 being a polarizing whiskey, and because of that, it
deserves my Bar rating. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you to do so responsibly.
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