Just
outside of downtown Denver is a fairly nondescript building. It looks like many
of the other warehouses in the neighborhood. You could drive right by it and
never know that inside one is Laws
Whiskey House.
Laws
Whiskey House (previously known as A.D. Laws) is not a newcomer to the whiskey scene. They've
been doing this since 2011. Al Laws mentored under Bill Friel (formally of Barton
and a member of the Kentucky
Bourbon Hall of Fame). Al's philosophy is to use local
grains to create unique whiskeys. He sources all the grains from two
family-owned farms: Colorado Malting Company in Alamosa and the Ohnmacht's in Eastern Colorado. LAWS Whiskey House uses only heirloom lower-yield grains, making mass production
difficult. However, mass production isn't a goal.
I’m
diving deep into the Exploring The Four Mother Grains whiskey package today. It
consists of 100ml samples of Four
Grain Straight Bourbon, San Luis Valley Straight Rye, Centennial
Straight Wheat, and Henry Road Straight Malt whiskeys
and has a suggested price of $39.99. It can be purchased directly from the
distillery via its website.
It
is important to note that either the whiskeys inside are made exclusively for
this sample pack or they are made from older stocks. The age statements are far
lower than their 750ml counterparts listed on the distillery’s website, and the
Wheat and Rye whiskeys are available only in Bonded versions.
We’ll
#DrinkCurious and try each expression one at a time. To avoid repetition in
each section, I used a fresh Glencairn glass and sipped each neat.
Finally,
I must thank Laws Whiskey House for providing me with this opportunity in
exchange for my no-strings-attached, honest review.
Four
Grain Straight Bourbon
- Mashbill: 60% corn, 20% heirloom wheat, 10% heirloom rye, 10% malted barley
- Age: 2+ years in 53-gallon new, charred oak
- Proof: 47.5% ABV (95°)
Appearance: This
Bourbon possessed a color like raw honey. A thick rim generated even thicker
tears that raced back to the pool.
Nose: Honey
was the first thing I smelled. Incidentally, I observed the color before bringing
the glass to my face. Corn and the maltiness you’d find near a bakery were
abundant. When I pulled the air through my lips, I found more corn.
Palate: The
Bourbon’s mouthfeel was weighty and introduced my palate to flavors of corn and
vanilla. As it moved to the middle, there was rye spice and oats. The back
consisted of charred oak and tobacco.
Finish: Honey
and oats, sweet tobacco, and rye spice remained. In the end, charred oak lasted
the longest. I timed the duration at 1:46, placing it in the long venue.
◊◊◊◊◊
San Luis Valley Straight
Rye
- Mashbill: 95% heirloom rye, 5% malted barley
- Age: 2+ years in 53-gallon new, charred oak
- Proof: 47.5% ABV (95°)
Appearance: The
dark gold liquid formed a thick rim and slow, wide tears.
Nose: I
smelled rye bread, light mint, oak, and caramel. When I inhaled through my
lips, there was a slight sensation of nutmeg.
Palate: San
Luis Valley’s Rye had a thin texture. It wasn’t shy flavor-wise. There was a
blast of rye, mint, oak spice, and barrel char. A front, middle, or back was
nearly impossible to nail down.
Finish: At only
95°, this whiskey was warming and continued to build. The rye and oak spices dominated
over the mint, which struggled to get noticed. As it approached its crescendo, black
coffee burst onto the scene. I timed the duration at 1:52, which classifies it
as long.
◊◊◊◊◊
Centennial Straight Wheat
Whiskey
- Mashbill: 100% soft white Centennial spring wheat
- Age: 2+ years in 53-gallon new, charred oak
- Proof: 47.5% ABV (95°)
Appearance: The
bright, golden liquid produced a thick rim with lightning-fast, medium-width
tears.
Nose: The
aroma was slightly fruity, with green apples and berries. I also smelled charred
oak and, strange as it may sound, malt. As I drew the aroma into my mouth, I
encountered nothing. As a point of reference, this has never happened in the
nearly 1000 whiskeys I’ve reviewed!
Palate: The
texture was incredibly thin and just slid across my tongue. It is also the most
mild 100% wheat whiskey I’ve tasted to date. The front included toffee and tobacco.
Next came oak and grass, followed by anise and bubble gum on the back.
Finish: The
notes of bubble gum, tobacco, and toffee remained, along with oak spices. Based
on my prior experience with 100% wheat whiskeys, it was a softer finish than
expected. The duration lasted 1:04, making it a medium finish.
◊◊◊◊◊
Henry
Road Straight Malt Whiskey
- Mashbill: 100% heirloom malted barley
- Age: 2+ years in 53-gallon new, charred oak
- Proof: 47.5% ABV (95°)
Appearance: The
malt whiskey was golden, with a thin rim and fast, watery tears.
Nose: When I
first approached this whiskey, there was some malty, earthy funk in its aroma. As
I continued, I discovered fennel and oak. Inside my mouth, the air seemed mossy
in nature.
Palate: There
was an incredibly thin, almost weightless mouthfeel to this whiskey. The front
of my palate plucked lemon oil and green apples. Midway through, I tasted eucalyptus
and grass. The back featured oak tannins and rye bread, which was interesting
considering there’s no rye in the mashbill.
Finish: The
slightly warming finish enhanced that rye bread sensation. Oak tannins, fennel,
eucalyptus, and lemon oil held on for 1:42, hovering on the border between
medium and long.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: You’ll
notice that I’ve not included a rating for each of the individual whiskeys, and
there’s a logical reason. These are only sold in the four-pack, so the tasting
kit earns the rating.
I’ve had each of these whiskeys
in their retail format. I previously reviewed the San
Luis Valley Rye and Henry
Road Malt bonded whiskeys. They were completely different in my experience.
For $40.00, this is an
interesting experience that gives you a chance to try what each grain category
offers, and I appreciate that two of the four are made from 100% of those
individual grains. While the whiskeys themselves won’t blow your mind, I
believe that experience itself is worth the investment. Hence, it deserves my Bottle
rating. Have fun with this. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you to do so responsibly.
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