This
is the second of a four-part series of reviews of Scotches from
independent bottlers. The first, which includes an explanation of what (or who)
independent bottlers are, is here.
If
I mentioned the Scottish village of Craigellachie and asked you what you
associated with it, you may suggest The
Macallan. If I asked you to think harder, you
could blurt out The
Craigellachie Hotel, which happens to be the oldest whisky
hotel in all of Scotland, dating back to 1893. You might even mention it is
where the Fiddich and Spey rivers meet.
Less
known is The Craigellachie
Distillery. If that doesn’t ring a bell, think Dewar’s.
Craigellachie makes a large portion of the blend that goes into Dewar’s. It was
also a significant component of The White
Horse. The distillery was founded in 1891 by
blenders and merchants Alexander
Edward and Peter Mackie. Shortly after that,
it became The Craigellachie-Glenlivet
Distillery, Co., then sold to The Distillery Company, Ltd., and again to SMD in 1930, who retained ownership until
1998, when it was acquired by Dewar’s. The distillery uses a worm tub,
transforming the alcohol vapor into liquid and creating a heavier, more
flavorful spirit.
Today,
we’ll explore two independent bottlings of The Craigellachie from Ferg & Harris. Founded in 2020 by John Ferguson and Alex Harrison,
the Edinburgh-based enterprise specializes in single malt, single cask
whiskies.
“First, we seek out top-class single malts. Next, each cask is decanted into another carefully chosen barrel. Then we wait. For fine whiskies and matched wood to do their magic. Finally, our remarkable liquids are bottled for a lucky few.” – Ferg & Harris
Ferg
& Harris warehouses a stock of about 500 barrels of whisky.
The Whiskey
Lab, founded by Jay Roberts,
provided the samples for today's subject whiskies. The Whiskey Lab specializes in
procuring rare and exclusive Scotch whiskies for the American market. These
were given to me in exchange for my no-strings-attached, honest reviews, so
let’s #DrinkCurious and discover what these Craigellachie expressions are all
about!
I
used a fresh Glencairn glass for each and sipped both neat.
The Craigellachie
15 – Virgin Oak Finish
- Mashbill: 100% malted barley
- Age: 15 years
- Cooperage: 1st fill Amontilado matured oak, 1st fill virgin oak finish
- Alcohol Content: 63.1% ABV (126.2°)
- 700mL Price: $170.00
- Number of Bottles: 284
Appearance: In my
glass, this whisky was the color of maple syrup. A fragile rim discharged
thick, tightly spaced, slow tears.
Nose: The
aroma caught me off guard. Yeah, you read that right. I must have uttered
something because my response caught Mrs. Whiskeyfellow’s attention. I found cocoa,
caramel, leather, oak, and tobacco leaf. What was surprising was how strong the
cocoa was. There were cocoa and malt when I drew the air into my mouth.
Palate: I’ve
never used this descriptor for a whisky’s texture, but gooey immediately
came to mind. The front of my palate encountered raw honey, toffee, and caramel.
The mid-palate had light cocoa and spiced apples. I tasted black pepper, cinnamon,
and toasted oak on the back.
Finish: My gut
reaction was that Virgin Oak Finish had a very long finish. I timed it; it ran 1:17,
suggesting it was medium-long. Honey, black pepper, cinnamon, and spiced apples
remained. It drank at right about its stated proof.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: I’ve
had single malts from Craigellachie before, and they tasted nothing like Virgin
Oak Finish. That’s not a statement on quality; rather, this is so far off the
beaten path that I would never have identified it as a Speyside Scotch. If I hadn’t
known this was Scotch whisky, I wouldn’t have been able to tell you what kind
of whisky it was.
That places Virgin Oak
Finish into the fascinating genre. I love unusual pours that don’t fit
the mold; at that point, a whisky’s price becomes less relevant. I truly
enjoyed this single-malt Scotch and believe you will, too. As such, it earned
every bit of my Bottle rating.
◊◊◊◊◊
The Craigellachie
15 – White Port Finish
- Mashbill: 100% malted barley
- Age: 15 years
- Cooperage: 1st fill Amontilado matured oak, 1st fill White Port finish
- Alcohol Content: 64.2% ABV (128.4°)
- 700mL Price: $170.00
- Number of Bottles: 279
Appearance: The whisky’s
color was similar to caramel. A thin rim produced slow, compact, sticky tears.
Nose: After
allowing this Scotch time to breathe, I smelled black raisins, plums, cherries,
honey, vanilla, and chocolate. Inhaling the vapor through my lips had me
experience hazelnuts and cocoa (think Nutella).
Palate: White
Port Finish possessed a velvety mouthfeel. Flavors of chocolate, plums, and
cherries hit the front of my palate. Next came apricots, pineapples, and honey.
The back featured white pepper, oak, and fresh leather.
Finish: The duration
ran 1:21, making it medium long. Nutmeg, oak, honey, plums, leather, and
chocolate shouted for attention. As things began to level off, the finish
became dry.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Craigellachie
15 White Port Finish drank nowhere near its stated proof; think about 20 points
lower. It was flavorful, well-balanced, and easily sipped. It ticked all the
boxes of a classic Speyside Single Malt, with plenty of fruit, honey, and a
smidge of spice. The Port component added the complimentary notes of leather
and chocolate.
White Port Finish lacked
any unpleasant tastes or harsh heat, making it inviting to both Scotch fans and
the Scotch Curious. It is worth the price of admission, meaning it takes my Bottle
rating.
◊◊◊◊◊
Final Thoughts: Both expressions
are lovely and worth picking up. If I could only choose one, it would be the
Virgin Oak Finish due to its uniqueness. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit
but begs you to do so responsibly.
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