This
is the third of a four-part series of reviews of Scotches from independent
bottlers. The first, which includes an explanation of what (or who) independent
bottlers are, is here.
This
series has explored independent bottler Scotches offered by The Whiskey Lab, which specializes in procuring rare and exclusive
Scotch whiskies for the American market.
“In
the fall of 2020, as the world went quiet, a small group of us from the Chicago
Booth XP-91 class found solace and connection in virtual whisky tastings. Led
by myself, Jay
Roberts, and my co-founder Mark Sumlin, these sessions soon became a highlight of our
lockdown life. Our shared passion didn't fade with graduation; instead, it
sparked the creation of The Whiskey Lab.”
The duo then formed an independent bottling company called Whispering Waters, designed to locate (and offer) Scotches that would appeal to Bourbon lovers. Mark did wind up moving on in 2024.
Today,
we’ll explore three expressions from Whispering Waters: a single malt from Braeval,
a single grain from Girvan
Distillery, and a single malt from Teaninich.
These whiskies are all non-chill filtered and naturally colored.
The
Whiskey Lab was kind enough to provide me with samples of each in exchange for
my no-strings-attached, honest reviews. So, let’s #DrinkCurious and discover
what these Scotches are all about!
I
used a fresh Glencairn glass for each, and all were sipped neat.
Whispering
Waters - Braeval 9.97 Year Single Malt Scotch
- Region: Speyside
- Mashbill: 100% malted barley
- Age: 9.97 Years
- Cooperage: 1st Fill PX Sherry Cask Matured
- Alcohol Content: 60.2% ABV (120.4°)
- 700mL Price: $115.00
- Number of Bottles: 305
Interestingly,
Braevel doesn’t offer retail bottlings; anything out there is
provided by independent bottlers! It is a workhorse distillery founded in
Chapeltown by Chivas
Brothers, Ltd. in 1973 as Braes of Glenlivet.
Braevel is one of the two of the highest-altitude distilleries in Scotland, the
second being Dalwhinnie. The distillery is known for its thin-necked stills,
which produce light, floral whiskies.
Pernod
Ricard purchased Chivas Brothers in 2000 and
shuttered Braevel a year later. It remained silent until 2008 and has been
active ever since.
Appearance: This
whisky had a deep, dark, orange-amber color. A thin rim created fast, thicker,
tightly packed tears.
Nose: What
wafted from my glass smelled of dark raisins, overripe plums, blueberries, dried
cherries, and milk chocolate. Bringing the vapor into my mouth brought cocoa.
Palate: Braevel’s
texture was thin and oily. I tasted dates, figs, and boysenberries on the front
of my palate. The middle offered dark chocolate, honey, and cherries, while the
back included oak spice, ginger, and clove.
Finish: Ginger,
dark chocolate, raisins, honey, and oak spice permeated my tongue and throat.
It was a combination of sweet and spicy. I timed it at 2:17, making it long.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: In full
disclosure, I’m a sucker for Pedro Ximenez sherry finishes. Coming across one
that was entirely aged in 1st fill PX casks is unusual, and this was
a fantastic sipping experience. At $115.00, I believe Whispering Waters’
Braeval 9.97 is one heck of a bargain, and my Bottle rating is beyond well-deserved.
It may be one of the best single-malt Scotches I’ve had in 2025.
◊◊◊◊◊
Whispering
Waters - Girvan 27 Year Single Grain Scotch
- Region: Lowland
- Mashbill: 91.5% Wheat and 8.5% malted barley
- Age: 27 years
- Cooperage: Ex-Bourbon Cask
- Alcohol Content: 52.6% ABV (105.2°)
- 700mL Price: $170.00
- Number of Bottles: 265
Founded
in 1963 by William
Grant & Sons, Girvan Distillery is one of Scotland's
largest distilleries. It was built and already distilling in only nine months
because of a tiff over a television commercial between Grant and Distiller’s Company Limited (“DCL,” which would later become Diageo).
DCL didn’t like the commercial and halted all grain whisky shipments to Grant.
Its whiskies are components for Grant’s and Clan
MacGregor.
Appearance: Girvan was
the color of sun-bleached straw. The thin rim created even thinner, close-knit
tears.
Nose: I gave
this whisky plenty of time to rest in the glass. When I brought it beneath my
nostrils and sniffed, I encountered a simple aroma of brown sugar, vanilla, and
a dash of cinnamon. A blast of caramel rolled across my tongue when I drew it through
my lips.
Palate: Girvan’s
mouthfeel was slick and oily, and that first sip caused my eyes to roll back.
Flavors of rich French vanilla ice cream and banana cream pie grabbed my
attention as they hit the front. The middle tasted of grilled pineapples. The
back featured brioche, salted caramel, and oak.
Finish: The
banana cream pie and vanilla ice cream came racing back, then parked on my
tongue. The oak gave it a slightly spicy sensation. The somewhat muted saltiness
only seemed to enhance the other flavors. The duration ran 1:48, making it somewhat
long.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Single
Grain Scotches are unfairly overlooked and often considered the red-headed
step-sister to Single Malts. I have had exceptional single grains, so I became
excited when the Girvan sample arrived.
I certainly wasn’t
disappointed. Girvan wasn’t a complicated whisky, yet what was there was well-balanced
and flavorful, and I was impressed with how deep those notes reached. Jay and
Mark did a great job selecting this Scotch, and it deserves every bit of my Bottle
rating.
◊◊◊◊◊
Whispering
Waters - Teaninich 12 Year Single Malt Scotch
- Region: Highland
- Mashbill: 100% malted barley
- Age: 12 years
- Cooperage: 1st Fill Ex-Bodega Oloroso Sherry Barrique
- Alcohol Content: 56.5% ABV (113°)
- 700mL Price: $125.00
- Number of Bottles: 306
Established
in 1817 by Captain
Hugo Munro, Teaninich was sold to DCL in 1933. Despite
becoming one of the largest distilleries in Scotland, it was demolished in the late
1990s and then rebuilt to modern standards. It is the third-largest distillery owned
by Diageo, and 99% of its malts are used for Johnnie Walker and other Diageo-owned
blends, but it also winds up in a handful of non-Diageo blends. Almost all of
its single malt whiskies go to independent bottlers.
Remarkable
fact: Teaninich utilizes Scotland’s only hammer mill.
Appearance: Inside
my glass, this Scotch looked brassy. A fragile rim discharged a curtain of tightly
spaced, lightning-quick tears.
Nose: My
olfactory sense plucked what I could swear was French toast. Lemon and lime
zests were present, along with almonds and apricots. I discovered golden
raisins when I drew the air into my mouth.
Palate: Teaninich was dense and creamy. On the front
were flavors of figs, dried apricots, and dates. Midway through, I tasted caramel,
molasses, and almonds. Nutmeg, milk chocolate, and oak spice formed the back.
Finish: The finish
highlighted the oak and nutmeg. Those seemed a natural fit with the French
toast. There was also a kiss of citrus. The medium duration was 0:53.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Whispering
Waters Teaninich 12 is a delightful
whisky that seemed closer to a Lowland Scotch than a Highland; it was light and
fruity. It drank at least a dozen points, if not more, below its stated proof.
I could picture myself
hanging out on my deck on a summer evening with a bottle of this whisky and wanting
to refill my glass a few times, which is what I consider to be a dangerous one.
At 113°, that will catch up with you before you realize it.
Teaninich 12 is a
well-balanced single-malt Scotch worth having, so I’m giving it my Bottle
rating.
◊◊◊◊◊
Final Thoughts: Here’s
the deal with independent bottlers. They’re similar to folks who pick single
barrels. Some know what they’re doing, others are just happy to get whatever a
distillery or distributor someone hands them. A good palate will discern
diamonds from glass. As evidenced by what I’ve tasted today, Jay is skilled, and I very much appreciate his sharing these whiskies with me.
I’d choose Braevel, Girvan,
and Teaninich to rank these in order.
Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit
but begs you to do so responsibly.
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