This is the first of a four-part series of reviews of Scotches from independent bottlers.
I've
talked about independent bottlers in the past. If you're unfamiliar with
the term, that is a brand that does not distill but buys casks from working
distilleries and packages them under their own label. They may do something
unique once they take possession of the whisky. An independent bottler may or
may not disclose what distillery they acquire the casks from. Independent
bottling is commonplace in Scotland; it is done in the United States but on a
much smaller scale, and most of the time, we refer to it as sourcing.
Today,
we’ll explore two whiskies from an independent bottler called Tri Carragh,
which was established in 2022 in Edinburgh. Tri Carragh specializes in single
malt Scotches that are non-chill-filtered and naturally colored. Its name comes
from the three core ingredients from which whisky is made.
“Water, barley and yeast have been used for centuries to produce Scotland’s finest spirit. When put through their paces, left to rest for years in an oak cask, they create a unique liquid, every single time.” – Tri Carragh
Samples
of each whisky were provided to me by The Whiskey Lab,
founded by Jay Roberts and Mark Sumlin. The Whiskey Lab specializes in procuring rare and
exclusive Scotch whiskies for the American market. These were given to me in
exchange for my no-strings-attached, honest reviews, so let’s #DrinkCurious and
discover what Mannochmore
11 Years Old, and Inchgower 16 Years Old
are all about!
I
used a fresh Glencairn glass for each and sipped both neat.
Mannochmore
11 Years Old
- Region: Speyside
- Mashbill: 100% malted barley
- Age: 11 years
- Cooperage: 2nd fill Bourbon cask
- Alcohol Content: 55.1% ABV (110.2°)
- 700mL Price: $95.00
- Number of Bottles: 190
Founded
in 1971 by Scotch
Malt Distillers and John Haig & Co
near Elgin, Mannochmore was built to produce whisky used in blends. It was
shuttered in 1985 and reopened in 1989. In 1992, it released its first
12-year-old single malt, and in 1995, the distillery produced for 12 months,
went silent for another 12, then reopened again for another 12. This cycle
continued until 2008, when the distillery ran full time and, in 2013, it added
additional stills to keep up with demand.
Diageo owns Mannochmore, which provides component whiskies
for Johnnie Walker, Dimple, and Pinch.
Appearance: The
straw-colored whisky created a thin rim and tightly spaced, thin, slow tears.
Nose: I could
smell fruits while I allowed this Scotch to rest in my glass. Yet, when I was
ready to examine it directly, it was a butterscotch bomb. There were dates,
milk chocolate, malt, and pastry. As I drew the air into my mouth, I
encountered cocoa.
Palate: Mannochmore’s
texture was buttery. The front of my palate found chocolate, dates, and
almonds. Flavors of vanilla, honey, and figs were at mid-palate, while the back
included clove, oak, and lemon curd.
Finish: The dry
finish featured lemon curd, clove, oak, honey, and dates. Just before it
vanished, there was a brief presence of leather. I timed the finish at 1:55,
making it long.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Tri
Carragh’s Mannochmore 11 Years Old drank way below its stated proof; I would assume
perhaps 15 points. It was full of character; it couldn’t decide if it was tart,
sweet, or spicy, and it commanded my full attention.
Prior to this review, I’d
not heard of Mannochmore. Now, my interest is piqued. I’m happy to give this
whisky my Bottle rating.
◊◊◊◊◊
Inchgower
16 Years Old
- Region: Speyside
- Mashbill: 100% malted barley
- Age: 16 years
- Cooperage: 1st fill Bourbon cask
- Alcohol Content: 51.7% ABV (103.4°)
- 700mL Price: $145.00
- Number of Bottles: 221
Built
in 1871 by Alexander
Wilson & Co., Inchgower replaced Tochineal Distillery after
relocating it to its present location. Much of the production equipment from
Tochineal was salvaged for Inchgower. In 1903, the distillery was mothballed.
It was purchased by Buckie
Council in 1936, and in 1938, ownership was
transferred to Arthur
Bell & Sons Ltd.
Currently
owned by Diageo, its malt is the most significant component of Bell’s blended
Scotch whisky.
Appearance: The
pale yellow-colored liquid formed a medium rim with crazed, thick, lightning-fast
tears.
Nose: Inchgower’s
aroma included vanilla, lemon zest, honey, and apricots. Inside my mouth, the vapor
tasted of vanilla bean.
Palate: The silky
texture introduced the front of my palate to flavors of lemon zest, fennel, and
baked apples. Those were followed by chocolate and leather, while the back
included oak tannins, herbal tea, and toffee.
Finish: The
duration ran 1:24, making it medium-to-long. Fennel, cocoa powder, oak spice,
and leather remained. Cocoa powder was the last to fade.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Inchgower’s
flavors bounced from citrus to herbal to fruity to savory to spicy and back to
herbal. While that sounds disjointed, for whatever reason, in this case, it
just worked, and that includes consideration for my general disdain for fennel.
The whiskey drank close to its stated proof; it settled nicely in my mouth and
throat.
Without question, Inchgower
16 Years is an unusual single-malt Scotch that I believe most Speyside or Highland
fans will find captivating and earns every bit of my Bottle rating.
Cheers!
The second installment of the series of reviews of Scotches from independent bottlers is here.
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit
but begs you to do so responsibly.
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